Before bringing home your new puppy, you need to have some supplies that are necessary for having a puppy. You might think having water and food is all you need, but you will need a few other things to get you started and enjoying your puppy.
The first thing to get is the food and water dish. Keep in mind that the stainless steel dishes are the best and are hypoallergenic. They are also easy to keep clean and should not need replacing very often. Always avoid plastic dishes as they can cause problems for some dog breeds as well as they are easy to chew up.
If your puppy would chew on a plastic dish, it could create sharp edges that can cut the puppy. They could also shadow the pieces that may cause some internal problems for the puppy. They can also create quite a mess if they decide to chew up the water and food bowl.
Before bringing your puppy home, you need to have some food, but you need to determine what kind of food you should have to feed the puppy. You can ask the breeder for a good dog food, but you also need to consider that the puppy needs the proper nutrients, vitamins, carbohydrates and protein as well as fats. Do not think that all dry dog foods are right to feed your puppy, if it does not have all the ingredients that a growing puppy needs they will lack a proper diet.
You also need a place for the puppy to sleep. You do not need to have a fancy bed, but something that is easy to clean and place in different places is ideal. Some people even use some clothes they have worn for the puppy to sleep on, it has their scent and calms the puppy. You can crate them for sleep time or have another area that will keep them safe.
All puppies need toys. This should include chew toys such as bones and squeaky toys. Balls are good for playing fetch as well as Frisbees. You only need a few toys, but you should have enough to keep the new puppy entertained. Do not give the puppy an old shoe or a rolled up sock, as this will confuse them as to what they can chew on and what they cannot. They do not know the difference between old and new.
It is often a great shock when a new dog owner finds their puppy mounting their leg; most new dog owners have no idea what to do when this happens. Sometimes the dog owner will quickly retract their leg and tell the dog no, while other times the dog owner believes that ignoring the behavior and letting the behavior dissipate on its own is the best course.
Unfortunately if the dog owner just ignores the behavior they are actually letting themselves become subordinate to their puppy, this can lead to severe behavioral problems in the long run. Some common behavioral problems for puppies left to become dominate include becoming overprotective, barking and biting.
The best way to stop your puppy from sexually mounting your leg is to immediately pull back your leg in a startling manner as soon as your puppy starts mounting it. Combine this immediate movement with a verbal command of “NO” every time the puppy begins to mount your leg or other body part. The sexual experimentation of your puppy is a normal process as they mature, but it is important as the owner to establish your dominance in the household and not allow the puppy any type of sexual mounting behavior at all around you.
If you are having an extremely hard time breaking your puppy of their pattern of sexual mounting it may be important to establish yourself as a leader again. This can be accomplished with regular obedience programs as well as some nonphysical commands. It will be necessary to distract your puppy before they began mounting, you can use food distractions but a better distraction is activities such as playing catch.
When you are dealing with a puppy that has an extreme case of sexual mounting everything they come into contact with, you may have to stop all petting and praising. For these puppies you will need to withhold all affection unless they have specifically obeyed a command. When they obey a brief command, such as sitting, you can offer them a quick rub on the back and then continue about your normal activities.
Through the process of persistence, education, and love you will be able to break your puppy of the annoying mounting of your leg or visitors in your home. With proper care and attention this type of behavior can easily fade away within a couple of weeks, if you do not give this type of behavior the proper attention it needs it can last throughout the life of your dog. Take the time necessary to train you are dog in how you want them to behave around you and the people that come into your home.
There are a variety of ways to add a new dog to your family. Each has its benefits and its potential problems. So, it is important to consider all of your choices and make the decision that will allow you to find the right pet your family. The most common places to adopt a dog include dog shelters and breed rescue associations.
Responsible animal shelters, dog pounds or humane societies can be some of the best places to find a dog for your family. Most of the pets that end up in these shelters were obtained by families who did not understand the responsibilities of caring for a pet or who had an unforeseen change in their family circumstances and can no longer properly care for their pet.
Good shelters will make sure that the dogs have a complete medical screening and are healthy. The shelter will get as complete a history of the pet as it can and will thoroughly assess the dog’s temperament. Shelters typically offer a good range of services to make sure that a dog is being placed in the proper home. They may offer pre-adoption counseling to make sure that you fully understand what is required to properly care for your dog and to make sure that the type of dog that you adopt is a good fit for your family. Most offer dogs for adoption who are up to date on their vaccinations and have already been spayed or neutered. Some shelters even offer post-adoption services including dog-training classes and medical services.
You will pay a lot less for your dog at a shelter than you would from a breeder or pet store and you can feel good about knowing that you prevented a dog from being euthanized when you welcomed him into your home.
One of the potential problems with adopting a dog from a shelter is that you can’t be sure of the dog’s history since shelter staff are relying on previous owners to fill in the gaps. Another potential problem is that you may not get the dog that you want. If you have your heart set on a certain breed, there is no guarantee that a shelter will have that particular dog, especially if you are looking for a dog of a particular gender or age.
If you are looking for a dog of a particular breed then a breed rescue association might be a good place for you to begin your search. These type of rescue associations usually only handle the adoption of one dog breed. So, they are a good way to find a particular breed of dog and provide it a good home. Their prices are usually significantly lower than a breeder or pet store. However, they may have dogs that have been abused or have health problems. You may also need to adopt an older dog rather than a new puppy which you could get from a breeder.
So, if you are looking to add a new dog to your home then consider doing a good deed and adopting a dog that would be otherwise euthanized.
The following are the various levels you can work towards if you consider Obedience Trialing. This aspect offers not only titles for your dog, but also the social companionship of traveling with other Club members to Trials held at other Clubs and venues throughout the State.
For those wishing to begin Trialing, there are a few pre requisites we suggest;
Buy an Obedience rulebook from the equipment shop of your club.
To enter a Trial you and your dog must be members of the DogsVic
When your Club holds their Obedience Trials, volunteer as a Steward (at present, Stewards must be DogsVic members) which will give you a great insight into the world of Trialing.
You and your dog are judged as a team and how you work together. The CCD exercises include heel on lead, stand for examination and both a sit and down stay and you must achieve 50% of your marks in each exercise to achieve a pass. A passing score is 75 points out of 100. Four your CCD title you are required to achieve 3 passing scores under at least 2 different judges for your CCD title.
This class includes the exercises as above but is all off lead which includes an off lead recall. A pass in this class requires a score of 170 points out of 200 with a 50% pass in each exercise. For your Novice title you are required to achieve 3 passing scores under at least 2 different Judges. This will then give you your CD (Companion Dog) title.
This level adds a new dimension to your competitive skills with the addition of retrieving, broad jump, change of position and the out of sight stays. Passes in this class are as for Novice which when achieved, will give you your CDX (Companion Dog Excellent) title.
One of the highest aims of all Trialers in Obedience is to achieve a UD (Utility Dog) title. The exercises include your dog using its excellent sense of smell in the Seek back and Scent Discrimination exercises and his ability to work without voice command in the Signal exercise. There is also a seven-minute Down Stay with the handler out of sight. UDx The highest obedience class where you can achieve a UDx title.
If you have tried Agility at your Club you may wish to go on and try for one of three Agility Titles. Passes are gained by having a clear round of the course within a certain timeframe, designated by a Judge at an Agility Trial. The requirement of DogsVic membership is the same as in Obedience.
Although some Clubs do not currently offer these disciplines, they are competitive areas you may, at some time, wish to consider.
The only reason to be breeding purebred dogs is to preserve the best qualities of the breed. Breeding to supply any market is not a justification.
You need to do all of your breeding with the best interests of the breed in mind. Not to make money.
For this you need to be a serious student of the breed and devote years of your life to it. Not think about now and gone tomorrow.
As a beginner you need to truly involve yourself in the breed as much as possible and ideally find someone who has been involved with this breed to learn from.
You need to keep track of all puppies you produce, whether pet or show, to know how you're breeding program is working.
All pet dogs need to go on a spay/neuter contract.
All show puppies need to go on a contract that will not allow breeding unless the dog lives up to the quality intended and passes all health checks and certification necessary for that breed.
Co-ownerships allow you a certain amount of control; they require your signature in order for puppies to be registered. The decision to have a Co-ownership contract is up to the breeder (the one who has the puppies) and judgement is usually made on a one on one basis as every puppy and person is different.
Breeders owe it to their breed and to themselves to be involved with rescue cases.
Every breeder should be prepared to take any dog back for whatever reason. If they don't have the room, then they need to be prepared to make other arrangements. But this agreement is a must!
Because of the times we live in we do charge for the puppies we produce.
I'm sure if we could we would all rather place them into deserving homes as valuable gifts. This would also get rid of the puppy farmers, as they couldn't make any money.
The fee charged is what we consider fair for the time and effort we put in but certainly not enough to cover all cost.
If someone can't or will not pay the price then let them go elsewhere or advise them of their choices, such as a rescue.
The general appearance shall be that of a well proportioned dog, the smooth outline showing quality, gracefulness and perfect balance, combined with sufficient substance to ensure that it is capable of enduring long periods of active duty in its intended task as a working sheep dog. Any tendency to coarseness or weediness is undesirable.
The Border Collie is highly intelligent, with an instinctive tendency to work and is readily responsive to training. Its keen, alert and eager expression add to its intelligent appearance, whilst its loyal and faithful nature demonstrates that it is at all times kindly disposed towards stock. Any aspect of structure or temperament foreign to a working dog is uncharacteristic.
Border Collie TEMPERAMENT - (See under Characteristics)
The skull is broad and flat between the ears, slightly narrowing to the eye, with a pronounced stop, cheeks deep but not prominent. The muzzle tapering to the nose, is strong and the same length as the skull. The lips are tight and clean and the nose is large with open nostrils. The nose colour in all dogs will be a solid colour with no pink or light pigment, and shall complement the background colour of the dog.
The eyes are set wide apart, oval shaped of moderate size harmonising with the colour of the coat but darker colour preferred, except in the case of chocolate where a lighter colour is permissible and in the case of merles where blue is permissible. The expression is mild but keen, alert and intelligent.
The ears should be of medium size and texture, set well apart, carried semi-erect. They are sensitive in their use, and inside well furnished with hair.
The teeth should be sound, strong and evenly spaced, the lower incisors just behind but touching the upper, that is a scissor bite.
The neck is of good length, strong and muscular, slightly arched and broadening to the shoulders, without throatiness or coarseness.
The shoulders are long, and well angulated to the upper arm, neither in nor out at elbow. The forelegs are well boned, straight and parallel when viewed from the front. Pasterns show flexibility with a slight slope when viewed from the side.
The body is moderately long with well sprung ribs tapering to a fairly deep and moderately broad chest. The loins are broad, deep, muscular and only slightly arched, flanks deep and not cut up.
The hindquarters are broad and muscular, in profile sloping gracefully to the set on of tail. The thighs are long, broad, deep and muscular with well turned stifles and strong hocks, well let down, and when viewed from the rear are straight and parallel.
Oval in shape, pads deep, strong and sound, toes moderately arched and close together. Nails short and strong.
The tail is moderately long, set on low, well furnished and with an upward swirl towards the end, completing the graceful contour and balance of the dog. The tail may be raised in excitement, but not carried over the back.
The movement is free, smooth and tireless, with a minimum lift of the feet, conveying the impression of the ability to move with great stealth. The action, viewed from the front, should be straight forward and true, without weakness at shoulders, elbows or pasterns. Viewed from behind the quarters thrust with strength and flexibility, with hocks not close nor too far apart. When trotting, the dog's feet tend to come closer together as speed increases, but when the dog comes to rest he should stand four square. Any tendency to stiltiness or to cowhocks or bowhocks is a serious fault.
Double coated, with a moderately long, dense, medium textured topcoat while the undercoat is short, soft and dense, making a weather resisting protection, with abundant coat to form mane, breeching and brush. On face, ear tips, forelegs (except for feather), hind legs from hock to ground, the hair is short and smooth.
Black and white, blue and white, chocolate and white, red and white, blue merle and the tri-colour black, tan and white. In each case the basic body colour must predominate and be the background colour of the dog.
Height: Dogs 48-53 cm (approx. 19-21 ins) at withers Bitches 46-51 cm (approx. 18-20 ins) at withers
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault.
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.